Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Apr 12-15: Researching work opportunities in Antigua


When booking my roundtrip Delta ticket, I had routed myself through Antigua on the return to stopover on the way home and check out work and boat storage potentials there as well. I had never been to Antigua before so I was looking forward to exploring somewhere new.

I arrived a few days before the annual Classic Yacht Regatta which takes place this year on April 17-22, followed by Sailing Week after that. The island is pretty quiet now since the Caribbean starts to slow down in April, when the weather heats up here and spring arrives in US, UK and Europe – the source for most visitors to the islands. But the arrival of these sailing competitions brings crowds and partiers from all over. And while I’d love to see some of the races and the boats, I’m not a crowd lover and typically prefer the smaller crowds and peace and quiet of the shoulder seasons in spring and fall, without the energy sapping and whole-body-sweat-producing heat that comes in August and September, along with increased hurricane risk.

Just now I’m sitting in a bar and restaurant called the Mad Mongoose just down the road from my hotel at the Antigua Yacht Club Marina Resort, where I requested and received a discount for my 3-night-stay which fell in a lull period between spring break and the regattas. I’m at the cafe to use their free Internet service – which many cafes and bars offer now to attract people like Tim and I who travel with laptops and use them to stay in touch with their “mainland life” while being on island to work.

So here I sit at an old wooden table and chair in a corner of the small low-key restaurant – a concrete building with bright yellow and blue walls inside, blue metal roof ceiling, 70’s and 80’s rock music playing (okay, blaring) from speakers hidden somewhere in the walls, under inexpensive metal multi-colored ceiling fans. It's between lunch and dinner hours so the only people here are Internet users like me, and while several of us are inside at empty tables, several other laptop users are outside at the picnic tables.

My other “office” location is the SeaBreeze Café just across the street from my hotel, which sits at water’s edge at the dinghy dock for the marina and harbor. The access there requires a code which wait staff will give you once you buy something (even a soda or coffee), but here the access is free whether you buy something or not.

I understand that Antigua has 365 beaches – one for every day of the year – but I haven’t visited a single one this trip and don't expect to since this is not a vacation trip. I’m here to visit marinas, yacht service companies, chandleries and service yards to find out about rates for anchoring/docking here and possible opportunities to work. That includes of course paying close attention to whatever “holes” might exist in each market for a particular type of service or skill that perhaps Tim and/or I have and could find a niche for ourselves.

The expats I've met living in the Caribbean and elsewhere in the world tend to be very resourceful people who often have more than one “job” in order to get by and be able to stay here. This kind of life is probably not well suited for those who require job security, high (or even medium) wages, and anything like a life that resembles the one “stateside.” I think many people misguidedly believe that living and working in the Caribbean is somehow "easier" or more carefree than other places -- like some type of perpetual vacation. But perhaps they have that mistaken impression because they've never actually done it and don't know anyone who does. From what I've learned from the many questions I've asked people who actually live aboard in the Caribbean or elsewhere -- they live pretty much like people everywhere -- except perhaps more basic and with much fewer conveniences and possessions. It's not a life appropriate for everyone, and while Tim and I aren’t sure if we have what it takes to make this kind of life work, or even if we'll like it in the longrun -- we think we might like to give it a try and see how it works out.

And we do have some perhaps lesser known skills that we’ve acquired over the years in one way or another through volunteer work, part-time jobs or other "life experiences".

In addition to Tim’s experience in sales/marketing, including 2 years as a boat broker, he also took some bartending training, because of course that’s always a need in most resort areas. As for me, I have dabbled in journalism by writing articles for lnewspapers and magazines in various states where we've lived, and I’ve created and edited manuals, brochures and other documents for business and non-profits as a consultant and volunteer. Working at a ski resort for two complete winters and my seasonal time at LL Bean in the warehouse reminded me of what it's like to be an hourly worker in a service-oriented and more "hands on" environment, so that adds another facet to my resume. Hopefully that proof of flexibility and adaptability will help for whatever we do next.

Of course we both have some basic experience with boat operation and delivery, including multi-day passages, so that’s another potential avenue to perhaps explore. I’ve already noted some “crew wanted” postings at local marinas for deliveries from Panama to Australia and across the Atlantic – all leaving in late April and May.

I read just the other day that Panama has greatly reduced the number of yachts they allow to make the transit each day, creating a huge backlog of boats sitting in marinas and anchorages on either side waiting for their turn to cross. I remember that the hostess of the Bequia's Friendship Rose was about to leave in April as crew for a family she met in Bequia who were leaving Bequia soon for the Canal. I wonder if they are one of the boats sitting there waiting now?

Her experience seems pretty typical of ones I see down here – people show up in a port and just ask around for someone looking for crew going in the same direction they want to go – and typically there are both looking – boat owners or skippers looking for crew, and crew looking for boats. Most crewing jobs are unpaid unless you are the skipper, and if you’re lucky they cover flights and other expenses (although some only cover meal share). So obviously you don’t do this for profit, just as a way to get where you’re going or perhaps for experience or seatime toward a skipper's license. The experience is what I’d be looking for if I go that route at some point.

Actually, if we’re resourceful, there are probably a lot of things we could do in order to eek out a living like many other “regular people” we know down here do (you know, the ones that don’t live off trust funds or early retirement income). It’s amazing what we can make work when we are motivated enough and willing to “just deal” with whatever downside comes with a chosen lifestyle, especially if we're also willing to make whatever sacrifices that also comes with that lifestyle. Everything in life is about the choices we make eh?

This was all I had time to write while in Antigua, but as noted in a previous entry there are more photos from this second working trip to Bequia and Antigua in April, so to view those please visit the photo blog at:
http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog/ctssyount/1/tpod.html.

Cheers, cy

Log Mar 31 - Apr 12 - Aqua "hand-off" with Lisa and enjoying return to Bequia

Entries for March 31 - April 12 at Aqua in Bequia

Note: For additional photos please see the four (4) online photo albums at:
http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog/ctssyount/1/tpod.html.

Admiralty Bay and cresent-shaped Lower Bay beach in the background (Princess Margaret Beach is between the two headlands just before Lower Bay).


I woke up later than usual this morning, around 7am, and to the sounds of birds chirping and daylight starting to gently seep in softly through the windows. The Passion Fruit Suite features a large bedroom with high, whitewashed, wood-beamed ceilings complete with turning ceiling fan, a very comfy king-size four poster bed, large master bath and “walk in” shower, and quadruple set of folding French doors with white wooden shutters leading to the large porch and poolside. The overall gracious and well-cared-for presentation makes me feel like I’ve stepped back in time to a tropical plantation estate.

I walked to the patio doors and slipped the bolts at the top and bottom of each door holding it in place, and then folded back the shuttered doors to enjoy the view of the porch leading to the plunge pool and palms in the foreground, and the lush hillside vegetation and sparkling harbor below in the background.

View of windward side and Atlantic Ocean (leeward side is Caribbean Sea)
Aqua also features wireless Internet access, so I spent the next couple of hours relaxing in my room, reading and replying to emails to handle business details with TMM, my contacts at the Sunshine School, and other details back in Maine.

Later in the day I slip into shorts and a lightweight shirt and my favorite “island flops” and hike into town for some groceries so I can cook most meals in the full kitchen. While there I run into a friend who introduces me to a couple who work with literacy on the island, something near and dear to my heart since I love to read and write. We start to chat about how I might get involved, and she mentions that she and her husband are going home tomorrow. When I ask where home is, I’m surprised to hear her answer “Maine.” It turns out they live in Kennebunkport, only about 45 minutes south of Portland. We make plans to meet in Maine to talk about working together on the small island of Bequia, thousands of miles away. Life is full of so many little ironies.


Lisa had offered to drive me back, but I had some other errands to run and wanted to walk for the exercise. With my load of groceries later in the day, the climb up the long hill from town gives me a great (and sweaty) workout. During my stay I am to make many climbs up that hill because I try to walk wherever I go instead of using Lisa’s car. From Lisa’s place it’s only a few minute walk to the beach in town, and even the more remote beaches of Admiralty Bay, like Princess Margaret and Lower Bay, can be reached by walking along the road for only a mile or so.


Beach outings and driving around the island
One of my favorite outings while at Aqua was to walk with Razmataz and Saffron to the beach at Lower Bay. Once there we’d walk along the sandy shore and swim together among the waves rolling in from the Bequia Channel. These outings reminded me of many similar walks Tim and I make with our dogs along nearby beaches in Maine. I’m glad Tim is there to continue those walks with Sammie, Kenman and Jaz, but I look forward to joining them when I return.

Being able to swim comfortably with Raz and Saf in the warm waters of Bequia makes me wish we could do the same in Maine. And of course we CAN do that, and Miss Samantha especially seems to think nothing of wading into the water up to her neck and paddling away at our Willard Beach. But not having that thick Husky skin ourselves, when we join them in wading in the chilly (50-something degree) water, it tends to quickly make our skin frosty red and our lips a deep shade of blue. :>) So we don’t join them in the water as often as we might like.

On the day of Lisa’s departure I rode with her to the airport on the other side of the island near Paget Farm, and then drove her car back to Aqua. I had purchased a temporary (6 month) driver’s license as required by SVG law so I could drive legally while I was there. Now all I had to do was get used to driving someone else’s car which I seldom to, and to driving on the left side of the road and on unfamiliar roads.

As you might expect, many roads here are quite narrow and windy, and even though they often include “turn outs” here and there to allow another car to get by, if you meet another vehicle in the areas where it’s too narrow for both, then someone must back up until a turnout is reached. That can be a rather daunting task, given the narrow roads and steep drop-offs on the hillsides with no guardrails. Most roads also have at least one side that simply ends when the edge drops into a deep concrete culvert designed to handle the water flow from rainy deluges common here at certain times. One of my biggest fears is misjudging the distance on the left side (since drivers sit on the right) and dropping a wheel off the edge and into the 2-foot-deep culvert. I’m not sure how much damage that would do to a vehicle, but I try not to think about that as I navigate the unfamiliar windy roads on my way back to Lisa’s place at Aqua.

Raz and Saf resting on the tiled floor of my apartment. Must have been a hard day.

Typical Day Ashore


After Lisa’s departure for the U.S., I gradually developed my own daily routine. Since I tend to be an early riser and am typically up by 6 or 6:30am, I’d start most days by wandering through the apartment and opening all the shuttered windows and doors closed the night before to keep out mosquitos and other insects. Then Raz and Saf would follow me next door to Lisa's apartment where I'd feed them their morning kibble and dog bones and fill their outdoor water bowls for the day.

Rich snapped this photo of me on the less developed windward size of Bequia.

The gym is open from 8-8 most days, so just before 8am I’d collect water for gym guests by filling a large pitcher with ice and filtered water from the tap (no Poland Springs water delivery here so we do it the old fashioned way). Then with pitcher in hand, I’d walk down the concrete steps to the gym, open both doors and all the windows, turn on the lights and ceiling fans, and check the supplies in the bathroom. Then I’d dump the soiled gym towels in the washer to be washed and hung on the line later, and then go outside to turn on the water pump for the pool which also operates the automatic purification system and the infinity edge “waterfall” sound as the overflow drops into the rock holding and recirculation area below.

During these “opening” tasks, I’d leave the dogs free to follow me or stretch their legs and roam a bit as they chose, for once gym visitors began to arrive on most days I kept them more contained upstairs with me. Lisa has gates on both sides of the porch, so that left only the steps down from my apartment to worry about, so I rigged another “gate” with a baby gate and chair that left them the run of both porches and access to my apartment when I was home, but kept them contained upstairs and separate from gym guests below.

The Gym

Lisa’s porch is bordered in the front by the roof of the apartment below, and the dogs are small enough they can squeeze through the railings onto the roof, and this has become a favorite spot of theirs, especially when home alone. They often sleep in the sun on the roof or watch the traffic on the road below, and if someone comes near the house they bark to let me know, so they were a great doorbell. I can understand why Lisa says many people refer to her place as “the one with the dogs on the roof.”

The gym is currently based on the honor system and guests pay as they use it or when billed monthly, and since the gym is often unattended during the day when Lisa is out conducting other business (and the same for me when I was there), the gym log is the primary way Lisa knows who to bill or who was there. It’s great to see places where people still trust each other’s “honor” to do the right thing, and you don’t have to flash an ID or member card in order to gain access to something. How refreshing and “stepping back in time” is that? It’s great to know there are still places out there where people have the kind of self-emposed honesty and character that it takes to make that possible.

The windward (Atlantic) side is more deserty and has more rock and less "lush" vegetation.

When I happened to be in the apartment while the gym was open, I could typically tell when someone was onsite by the clang of the free weights hitting the concrete floor or the beeping of the electronic treadmills. That was my cue to wander down the steps when I had a chance with a fresh pitcher of water or more ice, to check the supply of cups and towels, to review the log to see if any fees needed to be collected while I was there. It was a pretty easy “job” that left me free time to do other things as I needed, so I think I could get used to house-sitting as a way of life part of the time.

Kenny uses a compass to cut open coconuts.

Of course I’m not alone at Aqua. Lisa must have a knack for finding good people to work with her, something evident by her part-time staff Kenny and Abbi. Abbi, Lisa’s housekeeper, is a lovely and very dedicated and hardworking young woman who comes in a few times a week as needed, and Kenny is the overall handyman and gardener of the Aqua grounds. While I was there Abbi took care of daily cleaning tasks and we shared some of the laundry tasks since things were typically drying on the line when she left for the day. Kenny did an awesome job of keeping the grounds looking pristine and lush, and that seems to include gathering the fruit from the onsite tropical plants.

One day when guests David and Lita were taking a break from working out in the gym, Kenny picked ripe coconuts from a nearby tree. Then he used a compass (like a machete) to cut them open so Abbi, David, Lita and I could drink the sweet milky water from inside and eat the soft white flesh. When I asked why the shells weren’t covered in the “hairy” brown husks like I expected, he explained there are green coconuts, red coconuts, and I believe one other which escapes me at the moment. Interesting. Life long learning is not just about school eh?

Later in the week I watched as Kenny brought up a long strand of green bananas (about 4 feet long and heavily laden with bananas) to hang them on Lisa’s side porch for ripening in the shade. For the few years Tim and I have planted a small organic vegetable garden in our back yard to reduce our produce budget and gain more control over how what we eat was grown. That’s been very rewarding (and cost effective), but it must be really cool to pick coconuts and bananas from a tree in your own yard.

Excursion to see the rest of the island
Eventually I overcame my fear of dropping Lisa’s car into a culvert enough to drive around the island when needed. When Aqua guest Rich arrived from Oregon later in the week for a weeklong diving trip, I was able to drive him into town with his heavy diving gear so he could deposit it at the local dive shop.

Hegg Turtle Sanctuary near Spring, Bequia

On his last day in Bequia he was unable to dive again since he’d be flying early the next morning, so since we both had a free day and I’d never seen much of the island either I borrowed Lisa's car to drive a bit around the small island. When you arrive via boat, unless you have money to spend on taxis or car rentals (which we usually didn’t), you are often limited to seeing only the parts of an island that you can reach by dinghy or foot – so often you miss a lot.

We spent a couple of hours driving the windy and narrow roads leading to the other (windward) side of the island and it’s breathtaking windswept views. Thanks to the loan of Lisa’s car I finally had a chance to visit somewhere I’ve always wanted to go: the Hegg Turtle Sanctuary out past Spring, where a local resident is trying to save the Hawksbill and other sea turtles from extinction. In addition to the photos shown here, there are additional (and larger) photos shown in the online photo-blog noted below. That's all the entries I found time to write while in Bequia, but please see newer posts for whatever I might have posted more recently about Antigua or Maine.

More photos
There are limited entries in the blog about my second working trip to Bequi and Antigua in April because I didn’t seem to find much time to write during my stay. However, I did snap a number of photos when I could as shown here. If you’re interested the other photos can be viewed at your leisure in one of four (4) photo albums stored online at the photo blog:
http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog/ctssyount/1/tpod.html.
Cheers! cy

Sunday, April 27, 2008

Log Mar 30 - Bequia house-sitting arrival and reconnecting w/friends

Sunday, March 30, 2008

I arrived in St. Vincent after dark on a warm and balmy evening and took a taxi to the TMM base where Sacajawea rests. To keep expenses to a minimum I had asked the crew only to open the boat and skip the typical “turn around” detail work they'd usually do (making up the berths, charging the fridge, cleaning the bottom and such) -- since I only planned to sleep aboard and head to Bequia on the ferry the next day.

View of TMM/Sunsail marina from SJ's mooring

Even with my minimalist request, as usual, the dock crew had left SJ looking very clean and welcoming as she sat at the dock in the usual Mediterranean mooring (stern-to). Marlin helped me lift my bags aboard by handing them across the ever-changing “gap” between dock and stern, and then I timed the step when SJ drifted close to the dock and stepped aboard. After Marlin left I was so tired I just left my small roll-aboard suitcase and backpack in the saloon, changed into a tshirt and climbed into the berth. It was quiet tonight at the docks with only the sound of the boat fenders creaking against the dock and the water lapping against the hull of the boat. It was a cool evening and enough breeze to keep the bugs mostly at bay, but to avoid any middle-of-the-night surprises if the wind died, I turned on the little cabin fan just in case, and I was asleep in minutes.

Sunset over Blue Lagoon Harbor and Young Island to SJ's stern

The next morning it was fun to run into people I’ve gotten to know and enjoy at both the TMM and Sunsail bases. One of the British expat ladies working for Sunsail has two dogs that follow her everywhere, so we always enjoy comparing notes about our canine friends. I ran into Bob who seems to be TMM’s dockmaster (meaning he assigns duties to other dock crew), and had time to stop and chat with the always-smiling and welcoming faces of Colin, Marlin and Dexter during the morning. Lisa is John’s newest office staff member, and she is a wonderful addition with a great sense of humor and a quiet and friendly way about her.

All too soon my taxi had arrived to deliver me to the ferry docks – I wasn’t using the minibus today since I had luggage. My driver today was Kishorn, a local man of about 20-something and one of Phyllis’ staff of reliable drivers. He was a swift but careful driver and soon we arrived at the busy ferry docks on Kingstown just as the clouds overhead began to “spit” a bit of liquid sunshine from a tropical squall.

Busy minibus "station" in Kingstown, St. Vincent

I tend to pack as light as possible, especially since the many transitions between plane to taxi to boat to ferry means I need to be able to carry whatever I need during the trip or else leave it at home. So after paying Kishorn’s reasonable fare I grabbed my small rollaboard and my backpack and hurried up the ramp and into the bowels of the cavernous red-and-white Admiralty ferry. As usual, I paid attention to what was going on around me and noticed some people with luggage storing it on some racks installed for that purpose on the starboard side of the ferry. On previous trips we’d always hauled our luggage up the steep metal stairs on the port side because we didn’t know the racks were there, but this sounded like a much better idea to me.

Welcoming kisses from Saffron at Aqua

I walked to the head-high metal luggage racks attached to the outer bulkheads a few short feet from the eighteen-wheeler “big rig” truck loaded into the middle of the huge vehicle ferry, the massive truck currently being strapped down with chains attached to steel hooks in the floor. It was only later that I realized I had left my backpack with my laptop down below in the unattended and unlocked racks – and even though I could have gone down to get it I decided it would probably be fine because local people here tend to mind their own business and respect other people’s property. If trouble arises, all too often it’s from we “tourists.” So I left the backpack where it was for the duration of the one-hour crossing, and while I wouldn’t necessarily encourage others to leave valuables unattended like that anywhere, I wasn’t at all surprised to find my valuables exactly where I left them undisturbed when I went to collect them and exit the ferry on Bequia soil.

Razmataz (left) and Saffron relax on the front porch at Aqua. View from the lounger on the porch of the Passion Fruit Suite.

As I walked down the ramp onto the concrete ferry docks in Bequia, I said goodbye to a local lady from St. Vincent who was visiting friends for the day, and then I walked the short 200 yards to Maria’s Café where I was meeting Lisa for breakfast. She helped me carry my belongings up the concrete steps to the covered outdoor restaurant on the second floor. The “covered porch” area is the dining area with several picnic tables for seating, and an awesome view over the small one-way street and parallel Belmont Walkway to the sandy parking area and then the harbor beyond. The closed-in areas behind the open-air restaurant was the kitchen area and adjoining Internet cafe, along with real estate office.

We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast of scrambled eggs, bacon and toast. She noticed the bag I was carrying which was filled with photos on the outside of Tim and all our dogs, past and present, including Maxie and Sandy. It’s a great lightweight “carryall” bag with photo slots on one side – a gift from friend Erin which I’ve enjoyed carrying since memories of home go with me wherever I wander.

Aqua apartments - downstairs left is the Blue Parrot Suite, upstairs is Lisa's apartment and the Passion Fruit Suite

After breakfast we walked across the small sandy parking lot and loaded my luggage into Lisa’s compact SUV, an older model like most cars on the island. Cars here tend to be older, small, all wheel drive or often 4-wheel drive for rough and sometimes sandy roads. They are also very basic (no air conditioning or power steering or other amenities) – just something to get you around the seven-square-mile island. A number of people drive mini-mokes or small motorbikes, and it seems many local families don’t own a car at all and get where they need to go on foot or taxi when needed.

As Lisa drove on the left as is the custom in SVG, I enjoyed the view as she navigated the narrow and curvy concrete roads that climb above town toward the area known as Belmont where Aqua (her guest house and home) is located. After she pulled into her steep driveway and stopped just short of the beautiful white wooden gate which barred our climb any farther, we climbed out of the car and walked around the fencepost and up the remaining 30 yards or so to reach the lower apartment and gym.

Another view of Aqua apartments, this time of Passion Fruit Suite and plunge pool (over rock wall at right)

Lisa was a successful architect in Los Angeles before trading that career for full-time life in Bequia, and her creative design skills are evident when seeing her renovations at Aqua. To the right of the steep concrete driveway is the terracotta colored steps leading up to the refreshing plunge pool with infinity edge and soothing water feature, the railing an island-fitting heavy woven rope as thick as a hefty man’s arm. Behind the steps and under the pool is the rounded yellow concrete wall of The Gym, the only such facility on the island. The blue floors and white ceilings and walls of the medium-sized facility is well appointed with aerobic machines (treadmills, elliptic walkers, and exercise bikes) near the front; squat and bench press equipment and other free weights near the middle of the rectangular room, and a several-station universal machine and elevated stretching area in the rear, complete with balance balls and mats.

Refreshing Aqua plunge pool and view of Admiralty Bay

The first floor apartment is to the left of the gym and rock wall supporting the pool. We enter the unit through a covered porch with comfy-looking white wicker chairs and table, double French doors leading into the living area of the one-bedroom apartment with kitchen, bath and living room. The suite is aptly named the Blue Parrot Suite, a fitting name for the décor of cool cerulean blues and whites, rich wooden and leather accents, a blue and white tiled kitchen, and double doors leading into a large bedroom with white canopy bed and white-tiled shower.


The Gym at Aqua is visible from the drive up the hill on the main road

The second floor includes Lisa’s apartment on one side and a mirror image on the other, separated by a wall and connecting door for privacy or adjoining suites as needed. Both one-bedroom residences are fronted by white porch railings bordering spacious rectangular porches, providing lovely views overlooking the Aqua grounds, nearby hillsides and Admiralty Bay below.

The apartment that is to be my home for the next two weeks is called the Passion Fruit Suite. As I walk past a cool rattan-looking lounger for relaxing and a glass table with four padded chairs for al fresco dining, I step through the white folding quadruple French doors leading into the cozy den, fully appointed kitchen and vast back deck beyond. The entire suite is warmly appointed with bright yellow walls and deep reds in the tiled floors, high wooden-beamed ceilings with turning ceiling fans in both main rooms, including a king canopy bed in the bedroom with white flowing netting draped gracefully from each of the four bedposts. The rear of the apartment is a large rectangular bathroom with a square white shuttered window looking out onto the back deck and a walk-in-closet-sized white tiled shower.


Lisa and Raz enjoying a swim. Saffron likes to swim but Raz prefers to be carried the the water. It's so adorable.

A highlight of the day is meeting Lisa’s two dogs who are to be my constant companions for the duration of my stay, Razmataz and Saffron. Both are “island dogs” that Lisa adopted after relocating to Bequia, and their devotion to Lisa is clearly visible as they follow her happily here and there as she shows me around the grounds. Raz and Saf and I become fast friends, so perhaps they sense my love of dogs in general and their sweet natures in particular. It soon seems they have added me to their protective circle of people and property they watch over without being asked, with that never-failing loyalty that seems so inherent to dogs and small children. Both trusting little beings whom seem to have incredible instincts about people, a natural intuition and awareness that perhaps sometimes wanes in we humans after years of “conditioning” by the world around us. How lovely it is if we can learn from life’s experiences how to temper that childish nature as we mature, while still holding onto that instinctive intuition about people and life at the same time.

Lower Bay Beach often appears almost deserted, except for the small and unobtrusive beach bars (see one below)
In the afternoon Lisa invites me to accompany her to a typical Sunday afternoon haunt, the beach at Lower Bay, where we meet up with friends Tim and Suzanne. I met them both during my earlier trip at Sunshine School events, since Suzanne, like Lisa, also serves on the school’s board of directors, and she and I are working on the website updates together. We spend a few peaceful hours at the mostly deserted beach, alternating lazing in the sun with swimming in the cool and gentle rolling waves of lower Admiralty Bay.

Later in the day as afternoon slowly slips into early evening, we drift to a nearby beachside restaurant and bar. During the evening we move from one place to another, and I enjoy seeing new dining spots in Lower Bay. From the outdoor sandy floors of beach bars "Dawn’s" and “De Reef” which front Lower Bay, to the more upscale and secluded atmosphere of "Can’t Remember the Name" across the street, and later to the casual and open air candlelight of the second story restaurant "Coco’s" on the north side of the bay.

It seems Sunday evenings are a social time in Bequia, and during the evening I’ve met so many nice people I can scarcely keep the names straight. Lida and David-a very friendly couple and expats from the UK, Patrick from the US-who just bought property here and is building a house, Kenny the local taxi driver whom I run into often on the island and his friends, and many others. It’s only my first day in Bequia, and already I’ve met or become reacquainted with more people in a few hours than I see during a week’s time in the somewhat more reclusive environs of Maine. It’s not that people in Maine are unfriendly, but a somewhat “keep to yourself” attitude is more prevalent there. Perhaps a way of life influenced by the cold climate, which isn't very conducive to standing and chatting outside for long periods of time, except perhaps in the summer months when it’s warm enough to do that without shivering in the chilly air.

Lisa also works with the Bequia sailing regatta

We arrived back at Aqua around 10:30pm, but given my long and busy day it seemed much later to me. Tim and I caught up about our respective days via Skype phone, and after that I was waning so quickly that even my favorite bedtime habit of reading couldn’t hold my attention. Soon I was nodding off into the pages of my Clive Cussler novel, and finally to sleep in the smooth cotton sheets of the comfy four-poster bed.

Tuesday, April 22, 2008

Log for Mar 29 - Departure for 2nd Bequia working trip and philosophical musings

Tim and I and the pups enjoyed a family ride to the airport for my early Saturday morning flight. Sammie, Kennedy and Jazz are all familiar with the “airport run” since we often deliver or pick Tim up there, but historically it’s been less common for me to be the one coming or going alone. It seems that may change as Tim and I move toward the next “chapter” in our life.


Jazzie tucked in behind someone's head (I think it's Samantha's). Jazzie may be smaller and less agile than either Kenman or Sammie, but she is the most unafraid little thing I've ever seen. At 12, her hind legs are weak and I don't think she was previously active enough to ever achieve a strong fitness level, which of course we keep in mind when doing things with her, but she seems completely undaunted by that. Whatever she lacks in athletic ability or agility, she makes up for in "spunk" as Tim aptly put it.

We arrived at the Portland Jetport with plenty of time to spare, so Tim came in with me so we could be together a little longer before I went through security. I was looking forward to being in Bequia again, even if the timing was not so great since Tim had just returned around midnight Thursday from a business trip after being gone all week, but such is life for busy people eh?

This is a change though, since we’re both used to him missing lots of weekends since he’s always traveled for work, but having me be the one leaving him at home with the dogs and other household responsibilities is a new experience for both of us, and one that requires us both to regroup a bit.

To fly or not to fly
I used to really enjoy flying but not so much anymore with today's reduced number of flights and therefore more cramped and crowded planes, and of course the "joys" of clearing security. If traveling in New England I tend to take the bus or train whenever possible (my personal favorite is the train, because you don’t have the security hassles and you can use your "electronic devices" freely, and getting up and moving around is easier too). I find the way the US government has implemented airport security procedures to be degrading and mostly unproductive - since as with most heavy-handed systems, it punishes the honest people and the dishonest ones just find a new way around it. But that’s a soapbox for another day.....

Tim waited until I cleared the security hurdles and then we waved until we could no longer see each other after I turned the corner toward the gate, but I looked forward to seeing him again in a couple of short weeks. It helped to know we’d keep in regular touch with Skype calls and email. I DO love the Internet, and how I wish we’d had that back in the early 80’s when he was gone for 3 weeks at a time in Saudi Arabia and other Mideast locations where our contact was limited to once/week if that.

What do we read?
The flight to Atlanta was blissfully uneventful and even on time, and as I had several hours to wait before boarding my connecting flight to Barbados, I spent much of the time walking through the airport concourses just for the exercise and something to do. At one point I stopped in a bookstore to get a bottle of water and was immediately bombarded as I walked in the door by an “OK Magazine” featuring cover photo of Jennifer Anniston and headlines “Jen’s diet secrets that work”, and right next to it was People with “Best Bodies – Hollywood shares secret tips” splashed across the front in bright white letters. Oh boy, I can’t wait to hand over several dollars of hard earned money to read those. Yeah right.

Kennedy (aka Kenman) is probably happiest either on the beach roaming free (everyone needs to have their head once in a while), or in riding in the car which he now seems to equate with adventure and good things. These days when we go somewhere in the car his excitement is such that it seems he can scarcely contain himself. I love his enthusiasm for life.

However as I continued past the “glamour” corner I came across something I might be willing to part with money to obtain – I noticed Valerie Bertinelli (perhaps along with a ghost writer) has written a book about her life – from childhood star at age 12, to marrying a rock-n-roll icon, to watching her life change and her weight go up and down along with her happiness factor when things began to fall apart. I didn’t buy the book (at least not yet), because before I spend $16 or whatever the price was I tend to think about that a while, even if it’s “only $16.” And being the cheap person that I am (a friend said I wasn’t cheap but just “thrifty”, but honestly I think cheap is probably more fitting) – if I wait a few months it will probably be available in paperback at a fraction of the cost. I’m not always sure whether I’m being responsible or I’m just afraid to make a decision – but it’s true that sometimes waiting to spend money so I can spend less of it later seems like the thing to do for me.

As I walk away from the news stand I am struck that perhaps this choice of reading materials says much about the society in which we live. Option 1A: I can pay a few dollars and “read” (if you can call it that) a short and glossy article with more pictures than words, in a “throw-away” magazine that used lots of resources to create and will probably wind up in a landfill someday, about a glamorous TV and movie star who makes more money in a year than most of us will see in a lifetime, about her “quick fix” for staying thin. Knowing of course that not everyone can afford to fly in personal trainers or has the same access to whatever else might make that process a little easier for her. Or option 1B: I can spend the same amount of dollars and read about an entire group of glamorous people and how they keep their “hard bodies” – never mind the camera angles and air brushing and everything else that help that “image” that are curiously NOT mentioned in that magazine. Or Option 2: I can spend a little more and get a hard cover book (or perhaps later a paperback one), that will also come with pictures but might actually contain an interesting story about someone who’s willing to share BOTH the ups and downs of their life, not just the “glamorous” parts; and which perhaps I could keep for my own personal library, or even better, give to a friend who could reuse that resource or recycle it by donating it to my local library who would probably love to have it. I find myself wondering which choice most people make when presented with those options? And what it says about us as a nation if most of us out there seem to make one or the other? Life is full of choices out there, but I wonder how many of us really even notice how often we make them, and the ways they ultimately change our life?

Changing times (but then, when are they NOT changing?)

Sammie enjoys a rawhide chew. She tends to throw hers around first like a play thing - tossing it in the air and then pouncing on it when it hits the ground. It's her own little unique game and it's fun to watch.

As I wander from one concourse to another in Atlanta Hartsfield, I notice the changes in how we live and work reflected in the amenities in the airport. For instance, the formerly prevalent banks of payphones have been reduced to only a few here, driven to almost obsoleteness by the incredible popularity of cell phones. Sometimes I think I am one of the few remaining holdouts who resist being "reachable" every minute of the day by a cell phone or other “gadgets”, although I’ll bet there are others out there, even if in the minority these days.

I notice this as I stop by a pay phone bank, which upon closer inspection is actually only 4 pay phones (2 or 3 which don’t appear to work), and 4 Internet access stations. As I use my old-fashioned prepaid calling card to check in with Tim back in Portland, I see a 20-something guy waiting patiently nearby, and as I leave the phone booth I realize he was waiting to use the phone too. It’s good to know I’m not the only one who still uses them. As I walk past the laptop recharge stations in the waiting areas in the C concourse for Delta, I’m again struck by the dependence we seem to have today on “gadgets” – we need money to buy them and their accessories, we need places to recharge them and the recharging accessories to do it, we need carrying cases or belt holders to carry them, and we’re constantly interrupted and distracted by them, and in some cases it seems we’ve forgotten how to “disconnect” once in a while and just sit quietly and think or read or chat with the person sitting next to us. I can’t help but wonder, have all these “conveniences” really made our lives better?

Hmmmm....to eat healthy or what sounds good?
As I make the long walk between my arrival at concourse B to the international departures at concourse E in Delta-land, I keep a sharp eye open for the old TCBY Yogurt stand, one of the few remaining places where you can find those walnuts in syrup that I like so much and can’t find in New England or out West. I realize that TCBY is gone now and something called “Freshens” seems to have taken their place (and no syrupy walnuts available), but after some searching I did find one Columbo Yogurt who still offered that hard-to-find fattening topping. In the same area I also noticed a Chick Filet, another of my favorite “splurges” when flying through the South that’s not available where I live.

Jazzie seems to enjoy being brushed or bathed or petted or whatever, as long as she has that human touch she seems content. But then, who doesn't respond to being touched in a kind and loving way?

Hmmmm….I wonder if the plentiful availability of such unhealthy and fat-ladden choices has anything to do with why I struggled with my weight while growing up and living in this part of the country? (Not that the struggle is over of course, but perhaps I'm better armed and educated to make it today). And judging by the people you see on the street, it seems many other people fight (and perhaps lose) that same battle between what I want and what is good for my body. Not that there aren’t healthy choices out there, but if Atlanta airport is any example, I’d still have to walk past a lot of greasy but tempting fast-food, fried-food options to get to those few and far between healthier ones. Perhaps that explains the extra flesh, high blood pressure, diabetes and other ailments so common among residents in parts of the country where the food options tend to be a plethora of fast and fatty or surgary foods, and the tendency to exercise several times a week (and clicking the remote doesn’t count) is much harder to find. Oh well, as Scarlett O’hara says, I’ll worry about that tomorrow, but for now, I wonder if I can afford to buy the large size of chocolate vanilla swirl AND the nuts in syrup?

Appreciating our soldiers (male and female) and their families
Later in the day as I work on my laptop writing this log while waiting at the gate for my flight, I saw a gentleman waiting nearby get up as two soldiers in fatigue uniform walked past him, and he thanked them for what they did and shook their hands. It was obvious he didn’t know either soldier, but felt compelled to show his appreciation however he could, and it was also obvious how much that effort meant to them. I like that. What a nice moment, and I’m glad I was there to see it. It reminds me of that commercial for some investment company or bank about responsibility – you know the one where the woman grabs the guy who’s about to step out in front of a car, and then someone who sees her do that later helps another stranger on the street who’s struggling to carry something, and then that person…..do you know the one? That’s my favorite commercial, because it shows how we can “pass on” good deeds when other people see us do them and are inspired to do the same. Seeing that gentleman take the time and initiative to thank those soldiers makes me wish I had thought of that. But if I didn’t, then I’m sure glad he did.

The longer I wait in the airport the more I notice the presence of both male and female soldiers dressed in light-colored fatigues moving through the airport with purpose and confidence. I’m not sure why that surprises me, for after all we are at war now, and have been for several years. So perhaps seeing soldiers today moving with quiet purpose through airports is not that different than what our parents or grandparents saw in decades past, when they watched men in uniform move through train stations following orders to go wherever they were deployed when their country had a need and they answered the call. Perhaps the only difference is the mode of transportation and maybe the noticeable number of women in uniform today that our parents and grandparents didn’t see in years prior.

I was impressed with the agent at the Delta gate, when as she began making announcements for boarding the flight which left before mine, she made a brief tribute to the soldiers traveling on the flight at that gate (it was going to Charleston) and gave us a chance to show our appreciation too by a round of applause and allowing them to board first. It was a nice gesture but perhaps still a pretty small show of appreciation from us, especially given the huge risks they take and the high price they often pay as a result of what they do for all of us. Perhaps I notice this more than most since I spent five years working in a DoD environment with active military personnel. After getting to know them and their families and how they live--seeing spouses and children who are separated from their loved ones for months or even years, often not even knowing where they are or what they are doing for security reasons--well, unless we know people well who live like that, the sacrifices they make in their personal lives for that service to our country (and us) – is something perhaps we can’t even fathom.

Tim and I are fans of the show "Army Wives" on Lifetime, because it seems to do a great job of showing some of these everyday sacrifices – things that most of us just take for granted. I think it’s good to be reminded of what we have once in a while, less we forget how lucky we are to have what we have and enjoy the freedom and right to choose the way we do – often because of those people who give up some of their personal choices for a greater good. How short-sighted we can be if we forget to open our eyes and look around us, at all we have compared to so many other places in the world. And yet, even with all those blessings, still we tend to complain about this or that so often. It seems to me that learning to count our blessings instead is truly a more gracious and happier way to live, but I wonder why sometimes it seems so difficult for some of us to do that? Are we born that way, or are we "conditioned" later?

Ramblings on courtesy
I must be in a pensive and somewhat somber mood today (ya think?!), because as I board my flight from Atlanta to Barbados, I reflect on the lack of courtesy I’ve seen just today in the airport, but that reminds me of other instances that are such a common sight in our fast-paced society today. I regularly see people using cell phones in restaurants or airports or even movie theaters (Heaven forbid), seemingly without a care to whom might be sitting next to them or how they might be disrupting their peace and quiet (what little you can find in an airport as it is). And while that person we’re disturbing could get up move elsewhere, the problem with that solution is that since cell phones are so commonplace now-- it’s likely that wherever they go someone else will whip out that talking device wherever they sit next time, and perhaps do so with as much “oblivion” as the person they moved away from in the first place. With the proliferation of all these items of "convenience" -- have we forgotten how to be courteous?

There is probably a good reason that back when landline phones were our only option, they were installed in out-of-the-way places such as hallways and along a side wall and NOT right in the middle of the restaurant or in the seating area of the airport, and not in movie theaters at all. To me it’s sad how in our society our courtesy for others doesn’t seem to extend to our own ability to “notice others” and how we might impact them very often by what we do. But that courtesy only applies after someone makes a “rule” about where cellphones (or whatever else) can be used, or bans them from cars so we can keep ourselves (and our young drivers) safe from ourselves and themselves -- since after all, we so-called “grown-ups” are the example for those that follow, and they learn from watching us.

One thing I notice often is how many people don’t seem to notice their server in a restaurant when they approach the table. It’s like we forget that server has a job to do and doesn’t have time to “wait” for us to interrupt our conversation and look in their direction so they don’t have to interrupt it for us – something they might be reluctant to do if they were raised to be polite and courteous to others. The world we live in seems to breed two kinds of people – those that stand aside and wait patiently, and those that push their way ahead of others without ever seeming to even notice the courteous way others step aside to allow them to go first. And what I find most concerning based on what I’ve seen--and I’m sure I’ve done myself--is that all too often we “oblivious” ones tend to stay that way, and the “nicer ones” out there seem to get run over by the “not so nice” that seem to bring chaos and discord with them wherever they go. Just like in that restaurant – if that server is forced by our “oblivion” to wait for us each time, then obviously that shows they are more courteous and polite than we are. But unfortunately that also means their next customer waits to place their order, or for their food to be picked up in the kitchen while it’s still warm, etc. So our actions most definitely affect other people we may not even think about.

How lovely if we're taught from childhood--and are receptive to being reminded as adults when needed ---that these things ARE important; and that paying attention to what we’re doing and being aware of our surroundings is not just about US, but about how considerate we are of others too. Even if that process of making the effort to “notice” things -- might mean we have to “get over” ourselves and wait OURSELVES once in a while. Perhaps if each of us waited a little bit more often, and tried a little bit harder to do our part, doesn’t it seem likely that everyone would benefit in the long run?

I notice the lack of courtesy again during the flight safety instructions as I look around and see how many people are simply ignoring the flight attendant's safety speech and demonstration, perhaps because they’ve “heard it all before”. Yet those are typically the very same people who panic if something happens and they realize only THEN that they don’t have the slightest idea what to do because they couldn’t be bothered to pay attention when someone was trying to help them know what to do if it became necessary. I don’t want to be one of those people. And I don’t want to be the person in that seat who can’t interrupt what they’re doing to look up and see that the flight attendant is asking them what they’d like to drink of if they’d like a headset – because I’ve seen too often that is the very person who will complain later because they didn’t get a headset or wonder why it’s taking the flight attendants so long to get to their row with the beverages. Yikes.

As I get older I recognize the meaning behind many of those old clichés I’ve always heard – things like “what goes around comes around”. I think I “get that” now – because whether we live in a pond or an ocean, everything we do creates ripples in the water that affects everyone else – even people we may not even know. And if we aren't paying attention, then we might create not ripples-but tidal waves for others, especially if we insist on making ourselves the center of the pond and everyone else in it expendable to us or what we need or want. Why does it seem that it’s typically the "nice people" out there that find themselves riding out those tidal waves as they try to keep the pond safe for everyone, while the “ripplers” coast through life on the backs of others through the hard times, while never taking their turn at being the life preserver rather than the one that must be carried or that avoids helping someone else? But such is life, and if my understanding of what I read by John MacDonald, and Jane Austen before that, and Shakespeare before that, and perhaps even the Bible before that – it seems a consistent theme throughout the history of the world.

Interesting that I’m writing this and mention Jane Austen, since the movie for today’s flight begins and it happens to be “Becoming Jane” – the story of the life of Jane Austen and what was marketed as the love of her life. I say marketed because I am always a bit wary of anything which comes from Hollywood and advertised as the story of someone’s life, and admit I’m a bit spoiled by many years of watching PBS which seems to keep things much truer to real life than what makes good box office sales. And from what I understand about this story – as much as I wanted to watch it anyway because I’ve been a huge fan of Jane Austen since high school (back when most people would have said “Jane who”?), that the story was not exactly true to the history that perhaps she would have written about her life herself. These days I find myself being thankful for Mr. Hoke, a former English professor whom I was privileged to have as a teacher through all four years of high school, for introducing me to writers and poets like Austen and Dickens, Hemingway and Faulkner, Keats and Byron, and of course Shakespeare, along with a plethora of others.

The “Becoming Jane” movie has shown a couple of scenes that I thought were pretty well done, because they remind me of the wonderful sense of humor that practically leaps off the pages in Jane Austen’s books. So far my favorite scene in the movie is when all the young men are playing cricket in the beautiful green fields of England and suddenly Jane picks up the bat and stalks up to the plate (I’m sure my ignorance of cricket is showing here, so if you’re reading this and can offer corrections please do) – anyway, Jane strides up to the plate amidst the “shocked” utterances of everyone around her, because after all women don’t play cricket, it’s not “done” – and she proceeds to hit such a good shot that it appears her play overcomes the other team entirely, and in a way that leaves those open mouths of shock still open with awe at how well she did. Well done Jane. How much like real life that scene seems to me – because I seem to remember many times when I sense a “dropped jaw” among others after something I did (perhaps in pleasant surprise and other times shock or dismay). And other times I was the one left with my mouth gaping open in surprise (pleasant or otherwise). Is that art illustrating real life, or real life following art?

As I look out the window after a couple of hours into the flight and see the beginnings of azure colored water in varying shades of blues and greens and aquas indicating different depths and bottoms below, I also notice what appeared to be small barrier islands ringed with edges of sandy beaches, and the darker hues of blue to our east beyond. Our captain had indicated before takeoff that we’d be following along the coast, so I assumed we were over the barrier islands over Florida. Soon we left the mainland behind, with only clouds and seascapes beneath us for the remainder of the flight.

As I turn from my window and return my attention to the movie, I’m just in time to hear another of what is to become one of my favorite lines from the movie: When Jane suddenly sits down to write something that has occurred to her just as she’s introduced to some Lady of title (remember her works are set among the “landed gentry” of England), the Lady asks “What’s she doing” and Jane’s mother answers “She’s writing”. And the Lady’s only response is “Can anything be done about it?” Priceless. How like life today in some circles. Even though hundreds of years separate Jane Austen and I, perhaps we have more in common than I might think.

Tuesday, April 1, 2008

SJ log for March 5-12: Final entry for SVG trip

This log was updated on April 1 for entries between March 5 and our return to Maine on March 12, so this if the final post for the trip to St. Vincent & the Grenadines (SVG). Thank you for reading! cy

"Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness." Mark Twain

Please note that this blog displays most recent posts at top, so to view SJ log entries in chronological order simply start with the initial posting on Feb 5 and follow the "Newer Posts" links, or click on select dates at left to view just those dates. (Click on the arrow next to a month to open the list of entries posted in that month). Enjoy. cy
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During the final days of my trip to SVG, especially after Tim’s return on March 8, we were so busy that I wasn’t able to keep up with my log on a daily basis. Therefore this final post is just a plethora of “vignettes”, if you will, of favorite things and memories of all kinds from those remaining days.


Favorite snack this trip: Drinking coconut water with a straw right from the coconut. I bought this refreshing drink along the Belmont Walkway from a local man who had a wheelbarrow full of them, and who cut the top off with a compass (like a machete) as I waited.

Friendship Rose crew raises sails.

Favorite excursion: Day trip to Tobago Cays on the hand-built wooden schooner Friendship Rose. Exhilarating sailing, stunning scenery, wonderful food, a graceful and classic old boat, and a friendly and helpful crew made for a great day.

Favorite new saying: I understand that the Caribbean people have many sayings, but one of my favorites is this one: “"Don't ask me where I'm going - ask me where I've been".

Not so favorite affect of tourism -- the origins of
“dinghy watching”
On weekends or after school it’s not uncommon to see young island boys hanging out at the docks, and often they want to “help me” with my dinghy even when I don’t need it, or want to “watch” my dinghy while I’m away from the dock. This is an unfortunate result of visitors who, perhaps in an effort to help, created the “watch my dinghy” way of thinking in exchange for a pittance of $1 EC (about 30 cents US). So the trend came from outside the island rather than inside, because of course if I tie up my dinghy properly and lock it if needed, there is no need for anyone to “watch it”. And I have never seen a native Bequian ask anyone to watch their dinghy. This is an unfortunate learned habit for youth that we tourists started and that is now a reality that we all – locals and visitors alike – must deal with every day. I think it’s unfortunate because it creates a false need and tempts young men to hang out at docks looking for tips instead of going to school or doing something more productive with their time.

Carla dinghies into town to pick up Tim as he arrives back in Bequia on ferry from St. Vincent.

In previous trips I felt intimidated by these youths who take my line without my asking and then look at me expectantly. But now I’m getting more comfortable about looking them square in the face and saying thank you politely and then walking away, and just saying no if they ask to watch my dinghy while I’m gone. This was the case last Saturday when I arrived at the town dock to find several boys ages 10-14 just hanging out there, and I chatted with them about what they were up to after stepping onto the dock. I refused offers of help I didn’t need and offers to watch my dinghy since I was going to tie it up properly and it didn’t need to be watched.

That day, just before I walked away, two of the boys jumped into my dinghy without asking permission because one had dropped a coin in the water just below my boat and he was trying to use the dinghy to retrieve it. So while I wasn’t thrilled they had jumped into someone else’s private boat without asking – always bad form among boaters – I realized what he was trying to do and they weren’t really hurting anything, so I just stayed to watch and be sure they got back out again eventually. Then one of them decided to be a wise guy and tried to push the other one in the water, and then suddenly they were pushing and shoving each other in my dinghy which of course makes it my business. I told them that if they were going to fight to get out of the boat. They didn’t hear me (or ignored me) at first, so I got closer and raised my voice and with a more authoritative tone, told them if they were going to fight to get out of my boat -- and that got their attention. I also got the attention of a local man in another boat on the other side of the dock who repeated my request to get out of my boat in a much sterner voice than I had used, and another man who walked down the ramp to see if I needed help.

Tim is in the green shirt in the middle of the top deck. The photo is too small to see his smiling face, but boy is it a welcome sight!

I’ve found men here watch over the boys and do a great job at not letting them hassle visitors or anyone else, and they get on their case when they do. I didn’t feel the boys were hassling me – to me it seemed more a normal case of kids doing what kids do – which sometimes is to take advantage of someone else’s kindness to them if they think they can get away with it. Perhaps that is not a trait limited to kids eh? Anyway, I handled it, but I also appreciated that those men were keeping an eye out all the same – not only for my comfort, but also for those young men who I hope will learn better ways to spend their time than idling it at docks waiting for tips. When I returned to the dock after running my errands, my dinghy was sitting there waiting undisturbed as I was pretty sure it would be, and I chatted cordially with the young men again as I was preparing to get underway. It felt good to overcome my fear of standing up to them when they took advantage of me being polite or nice to them, and none of them ever got in my dinghy again unless they were invited.

Favorite donation to a cause: I was working in the Gingerbread early one morning and a little boy of about 6 from the primary school was recruiting sponsors for a spelling contest at 50cent/word (that’s 50 EC cents). I’m always a sucker for little kids doing educational things, so I sponsored him for $5EC which appeared to be the typical donation on his little sheet, and I was touched by how excited he seemed to be when he ran back to his mother to show her his donation from a strange lady.

Favorite fish story: I love sea turtles, which are probably my favorite sea animal, and while snorkeling Tim and I saw two turtles munching on the sea grass near Princess Margaret Beach. I also saw a turtle poke its head out of the water every now and again in the harbor around Sacajawea, which always made my day. To me sea turtles are like the manatee, just gentle creatures that mind their own business and move peacefully from place to place, gliding along with their wing-like propulsion extremities and never bothering anyone else. There is a sea turtle refuge in Bequia (http://turtles.bequia.net/) where Orton King, a former skin-diving fisherman, is trying to save the hawksbill turtle from extinction.

Hawksbill turtle found in Grenadines and at Bequia turtle refuge.

Departure from SVG for St. Lucia, and then home to Maine

I left St. Vincent and the Grenadines on March 11, after Tim and I delivered SJ back to St. Vincent across the Bequia channel the day before. I decided to forgo yet another night at the dock while additional repairs to SJ were underway, so I headed toward home one day ahead of Tim to spend one night in a very nice but inexpensive hotel in St. Lucia at Rodney Bay. Rodney Bay is a very protected harbor on the northwest shore of the island near the capital of Castries. Rodney Bay and Castries are north of the more well-known “hurricane hole” of Marigot Bay, a location long-famed for its use by pirates and rum runners who used it to hide their sailing galleons in the hidden harbor, and more lately known in the world for its mega-yacht basin and background scenery for the remake of the Thomas Crown affair with Pierce Brosnan and Renee Rousseau.

Caribbean Liat flight from St. Vincent to St. Lucia

I was staying in St. Lucia at the Coco Palms Hotel, and after six weeks on board it was wonderful to have a hotel room all to myself, with a toilet that flushes instead of pumping a handle 10 or 20 times, hot and cold running water from the tap, a soft bed with fresh linens in a room that doesn’t swing around in the night when the wind howls, and a restaurant just across the stone courtyard where someone else does all the cooking. I’m not trying to complain because I chose to live aboard, including everything that goes with that; but I did feel truly pampered during that 24 hour break in my itinerary.

When Tim arrived the next morning and he and Daine (taxi driver) joined me for a leisurely breakfast in the plantation style restaurant, I felt refreshed and ready for the long drive back to the international airport at the south end of the island and the even longer trip home. It would be good to see our house again and especially those three doodles of ours -- Samantha, Kennedy, and Jasmine.

Coco Palms Hotel in St. Lucia

Until next time….

If you’ve stayed with me during this log, then thank you for your time and attention; and I hope you enjoyed the photos and the anecdotes. On the way home a friend from Bequia emailed me to ask if I could return in April to pet sit and house sit at her lovely three-apartment guest house while she is away (http://www.aquaonbequia.com/index.html), so if I’m able to make that and have time I’ll post some entries from that experience too. Until next time, I wish you safe and happy travels wherever life takes you!